It had been a while since I travelled outside the country, and thankfully had a spectacular time despite the last minute rushed passport experience which had me arrive at the airport with only one hour before boarding. I decided to take most of my holiday time this year and dedicate it to one long trip. It was very worth it.

My "cousin" and design partner in almasphere, sabrina herbosa reyes, had moved to CDMX some time ago to pursue her calling for sculpture and art. Through a lot of hard work, she managed to land her first solo show, and I figured what better time to visit the magical city than now. The first two nights I crashed at her apartment which was conveniently located near the gallery.. In a neighborhood a little similar to NYC's SoHo 'Condesa'.. or Countess.

Immediately I fell back in love with windows and doors that did not have screens. The sun was strong there, but somehow very gentle my entire trip. It would cool off around 4/5pm as more clouds seemed to cover it up and bring in a pleasant breeze. Mornings were spent looking out the window, hearing familiar city-starting sounds of horns and shouts, mixed with street sweepers and many birds singing. I knew I couldn't keep idle for the entire trip, so decided to bring the book All About Love, by Bell Hooks with me. In combination with the love energy throughout the city, it let me enjoy the serenity and magic buried inside the chaos of this metropolis.

In fact, I was fortunate enough to run into exactly 0 problems my entire stay. It seems I got them out of the way beforehand dealing with the passport agency. On the day of the opening night (my first daytime there), I spent a lot of time wondering around the two major parks in Condesa and observing the scene. Right away I noticed two very distinct things about the city.

For one.. it was filled with Lovers embracing each other. I saw all ages, old married couples, young school kids, everything in between. Very tightly holding each other, kissing in a loving way that wasn't offensive for my taste at least. My entire stay, this was one of the main constants throughout. In a way it was very refreshing to see and be reminded of love's presence around me.

The other thing that was completely abundant.. Dogs. Big dogs, little dogs, mostly without collars, sometimes being watched by a person 10-15 at a time! One of the first steps into the park I saw an entire army of dogs laying on the path with mats the watcher had set out. And I thought, are they perhaps selling them they have so many?!! The dogs where a little less refreshing than the lovers, but they were all well behaved. Even though they ran around and jumped over fences into the gardens, they never bumped into a human, or caused a commotion.

After the show, I headed north to a much more lowkey neighborhood called Santa Marie La Riberia.. What made this part, being my longest stay in one place, so special was the airbnb I was able to stay in. It almost felt like a dream. The room was an old compound used for an ambassador in times long past. The courtyard was the most magical space I have lived around ever in my life. The room itself was also the largest space I had ever stayed in. It wasn't just the size, but certain elements that made it so magic.

In the morning and early eve, the trees in the courtyard were filled with birds chatting about their day with each other. It felt like an entire swarm, but their constant sound was so refreshing and soothing, as a sonic book-end to my days. I would open my windows (without screens) in the mornings and let the breeze help wake me up, enjoying the shade of the portico as I did my daily meditations. On my last two night I was fortunate enough to experience a thunderstorm, as I sit reflecting on my time, the rain never touching me physically.. yet it and the thunder having the most soothing impact on me spiritually.

The highlight of my trip, was seeing one of my top three architects of all time (the only one I had not experienced yet): Luis Barragán. I haven't thought about his building in weeks as I write this now, and even just typing the name makes my heart quiver in the joy of memory.

This trip was also very much a pilgrimage towards his work. Ever since I first read his Pritzker Prize acceptance speech, I had an affinity with Barragán and his design principles. I scheduled a tour for both Casa Gilardi and his home and studio. Gilardi was the last project he made before he passed away. The potency and accrual of decades of experience were unleashed in the most subtle way here.

I have been to many extremely beautiful and impactful pieces of architecture. I have seen buildings older than the country I live in. Nothing made the same impact on me as Casa Gilardi. It started off with some discussion and explanation from our guide, who turned out to be the son of the original owner. In fact him and his mother still live in the house. That feeling of a personal visit and tour set the emotional stage for something I was not prepared for. I had just come to make some sketches of one of the greats, take some photos... easy.

As he invited us with a "could someone help me open the door to the hallway", I knew this was not going to be a regular tour. Everyone was shy, so naturally I did the honors. Standing in the yellow hallway, what I did not know is how perfect of a building it was. Yellow light filled the space as if someone had a smoke machine running, it was not just the color yellow.. It had a physical atmospheric presence. I whispered to myself "perfect" and continued to hold back tears of joy for the rest of my study. Once I left, I walked around the block on my way to his studio, and had to stop near a tree and break down crying (in a joyful way). I was so overwhelmed at the emotional vivacity in the space and that moment in life, I couldn't do anything but cry and express extreme gratitude for making it to this point in my journey.

Here I was staying in a palace all to myself, when I grew up sharing a bed with two other relatives. I made it to see one of my favorite architects of all times, when some of my close family members didn't make it to see 25 years of age.

In my younger years as an architect and designer I had not paid much attention to the emotional value or presence in a space. However one of the main take aways from my readings of 'All About Love' was the declaration that love is not an emotion, it is an action. In the city of colors and lovers, I felt the presence of the actions of love.. And it was in Casa Gilardi that it became very physical and tangible for me, for the first time in the world of architecture.

There were other incredible moments in my stay in Cuidad de Mexico as well. My pilgrimage was very successful and I can certainly see myself returning there again in the future.